Vogue Forces of Fashion

British Vogue's Fashion Features Director, Julia Hobbs

Forces of Fashion is a concentrated eight-hour conference that captures insights and creative processes from some of the most influential figures in the industry. Exclusively hosted in New York and London, I was lucky enough to attend this year’s one in London hosted at Central Saint Martins. With talks from the likes of Law Roach, Saoirse Ronan, Stella McCartney, and the designer of the moment, John Galliano, it was not to be missed. The key topics that emerged from the day were sustainability, authenticity, fashion innovation, and the importance of collaboration.

Ismaya Ffrench's Stencilling demonstation

Ismaya Ffrench and Alva Claire

British Vogue’s Fashion Features Director, Julia Hobbs, opened our first talk of the day from makeup artist Ismaya Ffrench and model of the year, Alva Claire, interviewed by British Vogue's contributing beauty editor, Tish Weinstock. We learnt all about Ismaya’s journey into the fashion industry and how she started with no knowledge of the fashion industry and only had Vogue as a reference point. Her journey into makeup begun via men’s makeup and editorial work before branching out into womenswear fashion shows. Ismaya is known for her creative approach with makeup and in particular, her flower stencilling technique, which we were lucky enough to see a demo of. Her key takeaway into the industry was the importance of being organic and adaptable, especially in fast-paced show environments. Model Alva Claire (nominated for Model of the Year), spoke about the adrenaline rush of runway shows, recalling her nervousness backstage at Chanel’s Show during Paris Fashion Week. She shared that the perfect look often comes together just seconds before the show starts, highlighting the intense pace of a model’s life.

Stella McCartney and British Vogue’s Head of Editorial Content, Chioma Nnadi

Stella McCartney

Interviewed by Chioma Nnadi, Stella McCartney discussed her unconventional path into fashion, inspired by a deep respect for animals and ethics. Her strong ethical background stems from her family values, with Stella making a conscious decision early in her career to avoid using animal products like leather and wool in her designs. At the time, this was an unconventional choice as animal-based materials were considered the hallmark of luxury. McCartney has continued to be an ethical fashion pioneer with her entire design philosophy rooted in sustainability. In her designs, she uses faux leather, organic cotton, and alternative materials like algae-based yarns, lab-grown sequins, and leather alternatives made from wine and grape skins becoming one of the first designers to integrate sustain able sourcing and environmental responsibility into high fashion. McCartney also stressed the importance of media support for innovators in the fashion industry. She believes that the press plays a crucial role in amplifying sustainable practices and helping to bring about policy changes that incentivize the use of sustainable materials.

Munroe Bergdorf and Law Roach

Law Roach

Law Roach is a renowned image architect and stylist, widely known for his transformative work with high-profile clients like Zendaya, Celine Dion, and many others. He has made a significant mark in the fashion industry (including winning the prestigious CFDA Stylist of the Year Award) not just through his styling, but by reimagining what it means to "curate" a public persona, making him one of the most influential figures in modern fashion. Roach coined (and trademarked) the term ‘Image Architect’, which he defines as a stylist who builds and shapes a person's visual identity. The key is in understanding not just the clothes, but the non-verbal communication through a person’s body language, posture, and attitude and through what he defined as ‘decoding the drama’, not just dressing clients but creating moments that speak volumes through visual storytelling, where every detail of the outfit plays a part in delivering a statement. Roach views each red-carpet appearance as a storytelling opportunity, where a look can evolve into a narrative that lasts beyond the event. He believes that the public's perception of a celebrity’s brand is influenced heavily by these moments, and he works to curate these stories in a way that positions his clients as not just fashion icons, but cultural forces. Today, image architects like Roach are seen as integral to a celebrity’s success, not just behind the scenes but as public-facing figures in their own right.

Saoirse Ronan and Jacqueline Durran

Saoirse Ronan and Jacqueline Durran

Acclaimed actress, Saoirse Ronan and Oscar-winning costume designer, Jacqueline Durran delved into the art of costume design and how it intersects with fashion. Ronan has worked closely with Durran on multiple projects such as Atonement, Little Women, and Brooklyn. Durran’s costumes are not just about aesthetics but about enhancing the storytelling and conveying deeper layers of meaning within the context of the film. Her process starts with research and narrative, making sure that a costume not only aligns with the film’s narrative and setting but also with the character’s identity. Then it is all about ensuring the costume is a definite form of visual storytelling. For instance, in Little Women, each character’s wardrobe was designed to reflect their personality and growth throughout the film, so they all had a specific colour palette and unique design elements, such as custom embroidered flowers on slippers. Character centred design is key in crafting clothes that support the emotional journey of the character, in Atonement, the iconic green dress worn by Keira Knightley was not only a visually stunning piece but also a symbol of the character's inner conflict that became a key symbol in the narrative. Durran acknowledged that while she doesn’t design with the intention of setting trends, she is aware of how her work resonates with audiences and can affect fashion in the real world. The iconic green dress in Atonement, became a cultural reference, and Little Women sparked conversations about how modern-day women interpret historical clothing.

Christopher Kane and Lena Dunham

Christopher Kane and Lena Dunham

Christopher Kane is known for his bold, innovative designs and a distinctive ability to blend commercial appeal with artistic expression. His conversation with Lena Dunham shed light on his creative journey and personal philosophy. Kane, like many other British designers, honed his craft at Central Saint Martins (CSM). He shared the significance of his early experiences there, noting that his work was deeply rooted in experimentation and pushing boundaries. One of the most defining moments of his career was his first collection, which was characterized by its handmade, raw quality. He described a process of "owning" his designs and staying true to his instincts, which helped him carve out a unique space in the fashion world where creativity is paramount, and boundaries are meant to be pushed. Kane’s collections have often been influenced by pop culture, and his first major collection was inspired by American beauty pageants. This exploration of glamour, beauty, and the complexity behind those concepts continues to inform his work. For Kane, fashion isn’t just about making clothes; it's about exploring ideas of beauty, identity, and society through the lens of fashion.

Gwendoline Christie and John Galliano

John Galliano

Arguably, the designer of the year thanks to his Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection (IYKYK) and one of fashion’s most iconic designers, some might describe John Galliano as a disciple of haute couture. His early career was shaped by his love of theatre. Galliano worked as a dresser at the National Theatre in London, where he encountered actors like Judi Dench and Bill Nighy. His time at Central Saint Martins was influenced by the underground cultural movements of the time. One of Galliano's first breakout moments was his graduate collection, Les Incroyables, that reflected his immersion in the world of theatre and ability to create immersive, narrative-driven experiences. His career-defining moment was his Autumn/Winter 1994 collection, a collection so groundbreaking it is still widely referenced today with Vogue Editor in Chief, Anna Wintour, still naming it her favourite collection to date. John Galliano's tenure at Maison Margiela (from 2014 onwards) is marked by a fascinating and bold fusion of his distinctive creativity with the house's conceptual, avant-garde ethos. Galliano’s creative process centres around imbuing his runway collections with a sense of storytelling that is as much about spectacle as it was about fashion. His takeaway message was stressing the significance of self-belief and listening to one's inner voice when crafting designs, stating that "God is inside you" and the dream must be realized from within.

British Vogue’s Head of Editorial Content, Chioma Nnadi

The overarching theme from the Vogue Forces of Fashion event is that fashion is driven by a sense of purpose, whether it’s addressing environmental impact, embracing diversity, or finding new ways to connect with the audience through technology and storytelling. Sustainability and innovation are no longer just trends but imperatives. Collaboration and authenticity remain core values for success, and as the industry continues to evolve, it’s clear that the future of fashion will be more inclusive, tech-driven, and socially conscious than ever before.

ELLE COLLECTIVE X CHANEL

On Monday evening, I had the pleasure of attending the CHANEL Beauty masterclass in partnership with ELLE Collective at Harrods. The masterclass was hosted by ELLE’s Contributing Editor, Nellie Eden and renowned makeup artist, Anna Payne exclusively for ELLE Collective Members as an opportunity to preview CHANEL’s new party season products.

Recently CHANEL beauty has been elevating its game to create multipurpose yet effective makeup products that for me perfectly encapsulates what the modern woman is after in her day-to-day makeup. This new party collection of makeup (designed by members of CHANEL's COMETES COLLECTIVE) has not disappointed, the favourite product of the collection was the eyeshadow palette designed by makeup artist and COMETES COLLECTIVE member, Valentina Li. Inspired by the northern lights, the palette has a nostalgic 80’s feel about it yet lends itself to being able to create more in trend makeup looks. The spectrum of the palette also enables all eyes colours to be distinguished whilst being the perfect tool to lift the entire structure of the face.

During the workshop segment, we were given makeup tips and tricks by the incredible Anna Payne. For Payne, it’s all about the dimension of the face and making sure that makeup is providing the face with a multi-dimensional feel. The key to creating this you may ask, lifting the face structure by contouring on the cheekbone and colouring under the lash line. Other tips included starting with highlighter before adding bronzer and my favourite tip, applying blusher on the eyes first and then bringing it down to the cheekbone.

Anna Payne's makeup look

After the workshop ended, we were given a chance to sample and try the new collection with Chanel makeup artists on hand showing us how to best apply the products to highlight our individual features. I was given the absolute luxury treatment when Anna Payne herself did my makeup, elevating my base to really as she said make my eyes pop. Will definitely be taking what she did and her tips in the workshop to incorporate into my daily routine.

Once we had sampled we were free to head down to the Chanel Store to spend our £30 voucher on Chanel products, £4 for a concealer, an array of samples not to mention Christmas decoration is definitely girl maths at its finest! Lastly, we were taken down to the popup for our very own Christmas filtered photo and polaroid.

London Fashion Week is back on the map!

Harry Styles at the S.S Daley Show

Typically, social media and the media as a whole is abuzz in fashion month with footage of New York, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks. However, it seems that this month certain presences have made London Fashion Week the talk of the town! There has been a shift in big British designers returning to London Fashion Week and a gaggle of celebrities and influencers in their wake. Even retail giants such as eBay and H&M are joining in on the action. As a result, countless viral moments have occurred that have officially reinstated its status as a key fashion week to attend. Read below for a recap of all the key moments.

Harry Styles and Anna Wintour sitting front row at the SS Daley Show

SS DALEY

Harry Styles made what would later be a viral appearance at London Fashion Week for the SS Daley S/S 25 collection. In what felt like a London Fashion Week 2013 throwback (IYKYK), Styles sat front row as a VIP Guest. Harry Styles is a longtime fan of SS Daley (having famously worn some of the brand’s pieces in his Golden music video) and from the start of 2024 became an investor with the aim to “focus on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern, British heritage house.” Anna Wintour sat front row next to Harry Styles at the SS Daley Show for London Fashion Week. Typically, the editor in Chief of Vogue is only seen at New York, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, so her appearance at London Fashion Week is indeed a turning point. Other high-profile names in attendance also included Emma Corrin.

Charli XCX at the H&M X Charli XCX party

H&M X Charli XCX party

London Fashion Week was kicked off with a bang thanks to Charli XCX’s and Jamie XX’s collaboration with H&M to celebrate the A/W 2024 collections, or as its otherwise known, the BRAT Autumn launch. In an ingenious PR campaign, the collaboration was teased for months and was the talk of the town, it seemed to be sold out before it was even opened (when Charli XCX posted the ticket link to her story it sold out within minutes). The location (an absolute secret until the night) was the Copper Box arena in East London with Charli XCX of course being the headline act. 3000 were in attendance, including Naomi Campbell, Ncuti Gatwa, Amelia Dimoldenberg, Mia Regan, Iris Law, Rafferty Law, Shay Mitchell, Amelia Grey and H&M city host Lila Moss making it a BRAT Party to remember.

Rihanna at Selfridges for the Fenty Hair Launch

Rihanna X Fenty

Rihanna graced us with her presence for the official launch of Fenty Hair at Selfridges. Certainly, a way to close London Fashion Week with a bang.

Lucky Blue and Nara Smith at the S/S 25 Burberry Show

Burberry

Typically, Burberry has been the only high-profile brand showcasing at London Fashion Week in a homage to its British heritage. Held at the National Theatre, the Spring/Summer 2025 showcase was definitely a breakaway from previous Burberry fashion shows. A swathe or British Talent and high-profile names were in attendance from Poppy Delevingne, Barry Keoghan, Lila Moss, Rosie Huntington- Whitely, Lady Amelia Windsor, Jerry Hall, Elizabeth Jagger, Erin O’Connor, David Gandy, Kelly Rutherford, Law Roach, Jourdan Dunn, and Jade Thirlwall. Most surprisingly of all, Lucky Blue and Nara Smith were also at the Burberry Fashion Show with Nara even vlogging shooting a get ready video with Vogue for the occasion. Whilst a definite shift in the demeanour of the brand has helped, its newfound improvement in publicity is definitely thanks to the slew of celebrities in attendance at their show.

Maxim Magnus at the Harris Reed S/S 25 Fashion Show

Harris Reed

Designer of the moment and creative director of Nina Ricci, Harris Reed, showcased his Spring/Summer 25 collection at the Tate Modern. The dramatically caged runway display set the stage for the corset and crinoline trend in his collection that would later be displayed all over social media and one of the key headliners the next morning. Of course, an entourage of Reed’s industry friends and celebrities were in attendance including Kate Beckinsale, AJ Odudu and Maxim Magnus. Whilst still an emerging talent, Reed had most certainly already left a lasting imprint on the industry and thanks to his collaborations with the likes of Harry Styles, Florence Pugh, and his designs frequenting the covers of Vogue. Having him showcase in London will hopefully continue to be a feather in London Fashion Week’s cap.

Michelle Dockery at the S/S 25 JW Anderson Show

JW Anderson

LOEWE creative director, Jonathan Anderson returned to LFW for the second time this year to showcase the JW Anderson Spring/Summer 25 Collection. This iconic British brand (renown for pieces such as that Harry Styles Cardigan) had a curated list of guests in attendance, including Joe Alwyn, Jameela Jamil, James Blake, Normani, and Downtown Abbey’s Michelle Dockery.  

India Amarteifio at the S/S 25 Erdem Show

Erdem

Renown for always having a powerful story behind the collection, Erdem’s S/S 25 inspiration was ‘The Well of Loneliness” by Radclyffe Hall that was published in 1928 and banned from being circulated in the first year of it being published due to its theme of cross dressing and same sex relationships. The collection explored the push and pull of masculine and feminine dressing and its associated identity. The contrasting use of drop waisted dress silhouettes and trouser suits along with Saville Row tailoring and vintage visuals made it one of the highlights of London Fashion Week. Held at the British Museum, it had an entourage of famous faces to celebrate its launch including Bridgerton’s India Amarteifio, Andrea Riseborough, Lena Dunham, Erin O’Connor, and Pixie Geldof.